Monday, 2 August 2010

The Places in Between by Rory Stewart

The Places in Between by Rory Stewart (2006)
Read: July - August 2010

We were introduced (not literally - but that'd be cool!) to Rory Stewart when watching a programme he produced about Alexander the Great and his legacy in the Middle East. The perspective he offered on the situation; both historically and contemporary was really enlightening and so we dug around to find out more about him.
This is his first book and chronicles his time walking across the Middle East and Asia; which he seemed to just do for fun! It specifically focuses on the section of his walk through Afghanistan which he had to postpone due to the war in early 2000's. After he completed his walk he went on to become one of the youngest governors in Iraq and has since been a prominent commentator on the situation.
We ordered a whole bunch of books through Amazon to be waiting for us in London when we returned for the summer and this was one of the three or four we took with us on our summer tour of America and Canada.
It is simply an amazing book telling a truly unique and amazing story. Stewart is travelling alone (or attempting to) and has his money and passport hidden at the bottom of his bag which is thrown over his back as he wears rugs and shawls that the locals do. He isn't local though and hence the constant followers he has for his own safety. He is obviously skeptical about their presence and does not think it necessary, but there are a few occasions when he is alone and does get into trouble; rocks being thrown, dogs set on him, hospitality refused.
His journey is based on the understanding that in these tribal communities families should always welcome and care for visitors and travellers. Stewart's ability to communicate in the native dialects is amazing and gets him into and out of many situations. His understanding of the tribal hierarchy too is a phenomenal insight.
I'm almost grateful at times to read that he becomes unwell on his travels - as someone who regularly gets ill from the smallest thing here in Egypt I'm glad that hes not one of those people with a lead stomach! Although he doesn't mention being ill every day, you get the impression that he was most of the time and although he is very gracious to his hosts he really laments giving away his last set of medicines.
There are times that I found the narrative lacking emotion. Stewart writes in quite a matter-of-fact way at times and doesn't really let you into what he is thinking of the people or the places. He describes the scenery and the situation; but am I unsure how he feels about the wider implications of his journey.

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